Everyone knows that it's hard to find dollie shoes that look like a fullsize human ones. And there is a good reason behind that: most of dollie shoes are made of faux leather and lined with at least one layer of lining material.
It makes the shoes stiff and bulky. Sometimes a doll can't stand in a boots because their bootlegs are directed too much forward, and are too stiff to bend in the ankles. And bulky female shoes sometimes create an impression of "a girl in her mother's shoes" while their inner space just allows the foot to fit in.
I make my shoes and boots only out of genuine leather/suede or fabric, and I make them soft. I never line leather/suede until I'm asked - I'd rather prefer to put a thin socks or stockings on the doll. Thus the footwear clings to the feet neatly, and natural folds are created with usage and time in the same places where they could appear in a human footwear.
I also prefer not to use zippers for a faster putting the footwear on, but to take a time and lace the loops, or fasten the buttons or buckles. That's only my personal preference, and I can add zippers to a commissioned boots without any issues.
Custom work of this kind costs a lot, so you should be prepared to the prices of $100-150 for a pair and up, depending on the design.
I work mostly in 1/3 scale, and I rarely make shoes for 1/4 scale, because I want to provide a good level of realism, and the smaller feet are - the harder to achieve a realistic look. So I prefer to make shoes for at least 5 cm long feet.